




On Saturday 27 February I took a day from an administrative visit to Bukavu, in South Kivu Province on the far eastern border of DRC to make a very special personal trip to Uvira. Uvira is a town about 100 kilometers south of Bukavu, right on the top edge of Lake Tanganyika. I wanted to go there to meet Dina, fiancée of our friend Jimmy Mulanda Juma, whom we first met in South Africa in 1999, when he was a poor and lonely Congolese refugee in Durban. Now he is well educated, very experienced in peace and reconciliation work, and is getting his PhD in Italy. In June he will marry Dina, who lives in Bujumbura, Burundi, across the lake from Uvira. Since I can't go to the wedding, I wanted to take this opportunity to meet Dina, as well as members of Jimmy's family in Uvira. Above is a picture of Jimmy getting acquainted with our new granddaughter, Amari Kitoko, when he visited our home in Kinshasa in January.
Here are my journal notes from my quick trip to Uvira:
Walked from the guest house to the bus stop -- Alpha Car Express -- at 8:00 for the supposed 8:30 departure. For a while I was the only one there, and I waited while the crowd, mostly men, grew. The ramshackle van arrived and people started hopping in, then out, then in again; lots of arguing. Finally the agent made everyone get out and called the roll, telling each one where to sit. I was squished between two young me, one small and polite, the other large and loud. They spent almost the entire trip passing their fancy cell phones back and forth across me, exchanging music. Very interesting to learn how that is done. There were several pastors in the group; one of them was sitting forward on the seat behind me and sang hymns more and more loudly as the young men played their music more and more loudly. Three Rastafarians sat in the back. There were two other women and several more young men. We were very squished but i kept my back against the seat and my elbows firmly projected outward, and with the window open I was quite comfortable.
The best road to Uvira goes partly through Rwanda, so on the edge of Bukavu we got out for immigration/border formalities. The other people in the van gave their voter registration cards to the driver, who got them all processed, but I had to go to the window, present my passport, fill out a form, get a stamp in my passport. since we went in and out of Rwanda and DRC four times, with two border controls each time, I got to do this eight times and filled a page of my passport. Each time I walked across a bridge between the two countries, pondering the strange history represented by those bridges.
Back in the bus, and up the winding mountain roads of Rwanda. So cool and beautiful, with pine and eucalyptus trees on the steep slopes. Hairpin turns, up and up, cool breeze coming in the window. After about an hour in Rwanda we were back in DRC. Now we were on a plain, going through villages, and it was getting hot. People were getting off and on more frequently. The Rastafarians were met by a colorful, happy crowd at one crossroads, all wearing the characteristic red-yell-green knitted hats, scarves and "One Love" shirts. Telephone music blared, old pastor sang hymns, one lady threw up and had to get off, and we stopped at various spots where women were waiting to sell oranges or yoghurt in bottles or curds in bowls -- they dumped the milky, curdy mixture into plastic bags and stuck them through the windows. People put the bag on the floor at their feet and off we went.
Jimmy's mother and brother-in-law met me at the bus stop and I got a joyful embrace from his mom. Her face is full of kindness. Soon Jimmy's sister arrived -- what fun to meet her! -- and we got into a rented van with several other relatives and drove along the main street, which runs down a narrow strip of land with the lake on one side and a steep mountain side on the other. We turned up the mountain side and drove as far as the van could go, then went on by foot. I wanted to stop and look at everything, but the bus was leaving in an hour an a half so we didn't have much time. We walked on narrow, intricate parths and steps between houses till we got to Jimmy's sister and brother-in-law's house. His father, tall and stately, met us as we came up the path.
We went into a tidy, carefully prepared living room. Soon they brought in a huge meal which I was supposed to eat all alone. I begged for someone to eat with me, so the parents did. Incredibly delicious fish, chicken, rice, beans, potatoes, sauce, plaintains. The sister's children came in: lovely, friendly young women and shy little boys and girls. Everyone was very dressed up. It was a lot of people to sort out and get to know while also needing to eat appreciatively.
As we were eating Dina and Jimmy's oldest brother came in. They were late because of problems at the Burundi-DRC border; they had come across the lake by boat. I had about 20 minutes to get acquainted with Dina, but it wasn't hard to relate. We had a short, happy, fun time together. Dina is young, lovely, polite, obviously intelligent and is being well-educated. She is easy to talk to. I had brought gifts and we had fun passing them out.
Then, sadly, it was time to go. The whole crowd tromped down the hill, climbed into the van, and hustled to the bus stop. Lots of affectionate goodbyes and then they all took off, except Jimmy's brother, who stayed till I left. I also managed to "comfort myself," as they say here: the station manager led me around the back of the building to a house where he informed the people that I was going to use the bathroom, which I did and it wasn't too bad, and we all nodded and smiled as walked back through their outdoor kitchen area.
Then off we went again. this time I got a window seat; very lucky. A very skinny, boney, bossy mama sat beside me, insisted I buy oranges (they come in a nice handmade rafia bag), and made me give her money when she didn't have enough to get one of the wobbly bags of curds. This time it was a very noisy crowd, who talked and argued and laughed all the way home. I couldn't understand much of the Swahili but sometimes there was enough French for me to get the drift, as when they discussed for at least 45 minutes, with heated shouting and gesticulating, whether drinking alcohol is a sin. One guy asked me what I thought and I said, "It depends on the context," which he didn't even bother to translate to the rest of the discussion group. I knew they all thought i was a Catholic sister by the way the treated me, so had the fun of telling them how many children and grandchildren I have when they finally asked me. But they still called me "Ma Soeur." Everyone does. It's easy to say, and I do look like one.
As we barreled along through the intense greenness, the dusty brownness, the clear open blue skyness, I found myself thinking that I couldn't think of anything I'd rather be doing, anywhere I'd rather be at that moment. Then I remembered that the "corridor" between Bukavu and Uvira is an area that has been torn apart by the conflicts over access to mines, over old feuds revived by the influx of arms into the region, by the traipsing back and forth of armed military groups who pillage for food and then hurt the people in reprisals for "giving" food to another group which had previously stolen food, crops, animals and children.
When I finally walked back into DRC on the edge of Bukavu, I didn't get back in the bus, just kept walking toward the guest house till I got tired, then got on a motorcycle taxi for the last section. He waited while I ran into the guest house to get money, then dropped me off at the market. It was almost dark, but he showed me where to go in to get the plug adaptor I so badly needed in order to charge my camera. He said, "It was nice to drive you today." and drove off. I took a deep breath and moved into the dark but still crowded market. Could barely see, but kept asking where the electrical stuff was till someone led me there. The guy used a flashlight to look through his pile of stuff and we finally found the right thing. I "felt" my way out, bought avocado, bananas, jam and water for my supper, and trudged up the hilly rocky street under a beautiful moon to the guest house. There was hot water! Ah! What a great quick trip to Uvira.